|DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION||Kathmnadu /Kathmandu|
A moderately technical pyramid snow and rock mountain, Mt. Pumori is perhaps the most popular mountain among the 7000er Himalayas of Nepal. Climbing Pumori proves an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. Mount Pumori lies in the Khumbu Region of Nepal 8km west of Mount Everest along Nepal-Tibet Border. First ascended in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team, the name Pumori means an unmarried daughter in the Sherpa language. Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pumari is technically challenging mountain offering sections of wild exposure requiring climbers to have previous mountaineering experience and with excellent physical fitness level. The ascent to the Pumori is rewarded with stunning photographic views of snowy mountains including Lhotse and Everest.
Our plan is to attempt a summit via the Standard Route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3 snows and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We take the classic route along the south East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the Base Camp. The Base Camp will be set up at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach camp 1 at 5700m. From camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.