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Pumori Expedition

pumori-expedition-7000m

Starts from: Lukla

Ending: Lukla/Kathmandu

Best season: Spring and autumn

Trip duration: 35 days.

 Mountain Background

A moderately technical pyramid snow and rock mountain, Mt. Pumori is perhaps the most popular mountain among the 7000er Himalayas of Nepal. Climbing Pumori proves an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. Mount Pumori lies in the Khumbu Region of Nepal 8km west of Mount Everest along Nepal-Tibet Border. First ascended in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team, the name Pumori means an unmarried daughter in the Sherpa language.  Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pumari is technically challenging mountain offering sections of wild exposure requiring climbers to have previous mountaineering experience and with excellent physical fitness level. The ascent to the Pumori is rewarded with stunning photographic views of snowy mountains including Lhotse and Everest.

Our plan is to attempt a summit via the Standard Route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3 snows and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We take the classic route along the south East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the Base Camp. The Base Camp will be set up at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach camp 1 at 5700m. From camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.

Detailed Expedition Itinerary:

DAY 01:  Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan International Airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you to your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or wander around for shopping. In the evening All Trekkers Team will organize a welcome dinner for you in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.

DAY 02-03:  At leisure day in Kathmandu

Sightseeing and preparation for MtPumori Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Boudhnath Stupa and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone’s equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy any missing equipment. You will also meet with your fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.

DAY 04: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla

An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straightaway for our first night’s stop at Phakding. Situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi which drains the whole of the Khumbu region, Phakding is on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.

DAY 05: Trek to Namche Bazar

Continue up the banks of the Dudh Koshi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and the Bhote Koshi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.

DAY 06: At leisure in Namche Bazar

We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m (11,300ft).

DAY 07: Trek to Tyangboche

The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Koshi. Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Aama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Koshi River and make a steep climb to Tyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.

DAY 08:  Trek to Dingboche

Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again and crosses another airy suspension bridge. An hour’s walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Aama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.

DAY 09: Acclimatization

This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arriving at Base Camp.

While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.

DAY 10: Trek to Lobuche

Retrace back to Pheriche before continuing up the trail towards Base Camp. Reach Dugla situated below the snout of the Khumbu Glacier, a convenient place for lunch. After lunch, the trail starts steeply to climb up beside the glacier moraine. After a couple of hours the track eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses pleasantly situated at Lobuche.

DAY 11: Trek to Pumori Base Camp

Contouring along the valley-side and looking down on the Khumbu Glacier, follow a reasonable trail to Gorak Shep. This was the site of the Base Camp in 1953 and now consists of a few small tea houses. Leaving Gorak Shep, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble and eventually reaching Base Camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home for the next six weeks.

DAY 12: Rest, Acclimatization and preparation

DAY 13-27: Ascent of Mt Pumori

DAY 28: Withdraw to Base Camp

All team members return to Base Camp and assist with packing expedition stores and cleaning the Base Camp area.

DAY 29: Retrace to Lobuche

DAY 30: Trek to Pangboche

DAY 31: Trek to Namche

DAY 32: Trek to Lukla

DAY 33: Fly to Kathmandu

We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, All Trekkers Team will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and a farewell party to thank the Sherpa’s for their support and friendship.

DAY 34: Free day in Kathmandu

Today the journey comes to an end. There’s nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and final preparation for departure from Nepal.

DAY 35:  Airport transfer for return flight

Recommended Previous Experience

Mt. Pumori is a challenging mountain. Moreover, getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re “Into the Thin Air” up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator’s colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own welfare, but the welfare of the entire team.

Climbing Day:

The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in our climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides achieve a high measure of safety.  That way each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.

The Climb

Pumori Base Camp: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Tyangboche, Pheriche and Lobuche. The base camp lies at 5380m beside a small lake. Our plan is to set up two camps above the Base Camp. Please remember to acclimatize and rest properly before you climb higher. Also keep yourself hydrated and take into account the weather conditions.

Camp 1: About 3 hrs walk from the Base Camp takes us to camp 1 or advance base camp at 5700m. From camp 1, there’s a walk of 500m with 40 to 65 degree slopes. The mountain has many rock and mixed climb with traverse, steep and exposed ridges. There are also some ice walls that sometimes require fixed ropes.

Camp 2: camp 2 lies at 6200m on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. From camp 2, there’s an ice climb with 35-65 degrees for about 400meters with ice walls and crevasses. Take note of the avalanche danger from big seracs that hang from the shoulder of 6500m.

Camp 3 and Summit: camp 3 lies at 6850m. Generally, it’s windy around the camp. Also visible from the campsite is the Tibetan plateau. For the summit push, prepare the rope which may be necessary to cross many crevasses and ice walls. Of the two ranges – the one from Nepal side is easier than the Tibet side. Summit the mountain on its vertex at 7145m.

Weather Conditions:

The springtime from March to May and the autumn months from September to November are considered the favorable weather for Mt. Pumori climbing. However, the weather conditions in high mountains are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the Base Camp the Temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.

Leadership:

Our Pumori Expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times before.  They are supported by other crewmembers. Not only in terms of qualification, but also a proven track record in generally climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising safety. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crewmembers are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.

Team Composition:

Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for every 2 international climbers, we assign: All Trekkers Team accredited climbing leader, high altitude assistance Sherpa, cook, Base Camp assistance, porters and all necessary trek crew. Also included are yaks and the yak keeper.  Because of our high safety standards, team members will be added as per the number of international climbers.

Best Season:

The spring season of March to May and the autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Pumori expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavorable time climbing.

Why Expedition with All Trekkers Team?

Going on any adventure trip will require a substantial sum of money be paid in advance. Yet trusting a company you have no prior experience with involves a risk. We, however, are a fully bonded trek operator authorized by Nepal Government, Tourism and Civil Aviation Department, Nepal Tourism Board, Industry Department, Company Registration Office, Nepal National Bank and the Taxation Office. We are also affiliated with such prestigious regulating bodies as NATTA, NMA, TAAN, and KEEP.

A detailed list of our registrations and licenses for operation:

Nepal Ministry of Industry, Office of Company Register

Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Department of Tourism

Nepal Department of Small Cottage and Industries

Nepal Ministry of Finance, Department of VAT/ PAN

Tax Clearance Certificate

Central Bank of Nepal (Nepal Rastra Bank), Department of Foreign Currency Exchange:

Fair Price with Quality: 

Service, quality and fair prices – is the motto of our business. The packages we have offer unbeatable value for money. But you don’t have to take our word on it – we ask our clients shop around to other adventure companies to try to find a similar package at a better price. However, we do not compromise on quality to cut down the costs. Our edge over other international operators is that we are a Nepal based business that allows us to keep our overhead to a minimum. So we can offer the same facilities as those provided by a Western company at literally a fraction of the price. That about 40% of our bookings come from repeat business proves our performance when it comes to client satisfaction.

Sustainable Operation Policies:

All Trekkers Team (P) LTD observes responsible and sustainable tourism practices. The company works closely with all stakeholders including the local communities to protect and conserve natural environment. We ensure that all our adventure programs leave the least possible carbon footprint. We are also aware of the corporate social responsibility; hence we maintain highest ethical and professional standards as well as transparency in our business practices.

Local and Experienced Mountain Leaders:

All Trekkers Team (P) LTD employs and trains local staff so that the local communities benefit from our adventure operations. However, we never compromise on our high safety and quality standards. All of our leaders and guides are carefully selected based on their aptitude, experience, and leadership skills. Most of our guides have been continuously working with us for more than 10 years. Our guides are trained for remote emergencies and are well versed in local politics, culture and customs. Please check out the personal records of our guides who have scaled Mt. Everest several times (and hundreds of other lesser peaks). Thus, we guarantee that all our guides, cooks, and other crews members are qualified and experienced professionals who make it sure that you’re always safe, sound, and happy.

Additional Information:

Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it, please contact us by email. If you want to talk to us directly, feel free to call us at: +977-98510-78240, 98122-85346

Services Included:

All climbing permit, land, air transportation and accommodation in lodges/tent during the trek/climb, Food: three times meals in a day, necessary guides and required number of porter(s), other essential equipment.

Services Excluded:

Personal expenses, insurance, tips, emergency evacuation by helicopter, alternative transportation in case of heavy rain, landslide, strike and road blockade etc