Pasang Lhamu Chuli (NagpaiGosum) Expedition
Starts from: Lukla
Ending: Lukal, Solukhumbu
Best season: Spring and autumn
Trip duration: 49 days
Pasang Lhamu Chuli also goes by three other names: Jasumba, Cho Aui and Nagpai Gosum Peak. The first recorded summit to the peak was in 1986 by a Japanese team from the northern Tibetan side gaining the prominent northwest ridge to the summit. In 2009, a Swiss team consisting of three young mountaineers reached the top of Nagpai Gosum through the southern face, which no one had climbed before. The standard route begins from with trekking from Lukla and via Namche Bazar and passes through the Nagpa La pass. Nagpa La is an important route for the Tibetan refugees fleeing Tibet. The Base Camp lies on Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,100 meters. Mount Nagpai Gosum or the Pasang Lhamu Chuli lies in the Cho Oyu massif about six kilometers west of Mount Cho Oyu. In fact, Mount Nagpa Gosum is the highest of three 7000 meterpeaks in the southwestern ridge of Cho Oyu (8201m). The impressive north-face of Nagpa Gosum with its white “spider” can also be seen from the Gyabrag-glacier above Cho Oyu Base Camp.
The Pasang Lhamu Chuli or Nagpa Gosum base camp lies on the Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,400 meters. It is one hour from the traditional yak caravan route from Tibet to Namche Bazar over Nagpai La. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is at 5600 meters at the foot of the west ridge of Nampa La. Two more camps will be set up as we climb higher. Camp I at 6,250m just below the second Col. Camp II at 7,100m on the snow hump. After a few pitches climbing up a steep snow ridge we reach the summit, an ice pyramid with hardly enough space to stand on it. From the summit, savor the astonishingly close view of Everest and other high peaks, then rappel down and get back to basecamp the next day.
Detailed Expedition Itinerary:
Recommended Previous Experience
Although a 7,000’er, Mt. Pasang Lhamu Chuli requires both stamina and skill. Moreover, getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re “Into Thin Air” up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator’s colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at their own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides provide a high level of safety so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
For this expedition extensive walking in snow and ice is necessary. Demonstrate a working knowledge of alpine rope technique, crampons and ice axes are basic requirements. For progressing through the glaciated regions of the ascent route complete roping and ice climbing gear and walking sticks as well as very wellinsulated shell mountaineering boots are required. After establishing basecamp at 5,400m, we acclimatize by climbing on Dzasampatze peak immediately south of Pasang LhamuChuli. With a little ice climbing at first and then snow-trudging, we arrive at the camp I at 6,200m. From camp I, the climbing becomes more complex with big snow mushrooms between which lay steep ice walls. Camp II will be set up at 7,100m on the snow hump just behind Triangular Rock Peak. A few pitches climbing up steep snow ridges, then traverse about 300m to the right and get to the last summit ridge. Climb up 3 more pitches to reach the real summit, an ice pyramid not having enough space to stand on it. While climbing ice, make a good protection and belay using ice screws.
The springtime from March to May and the autumn months from September to November are considered the most favorable weather for Mount Pasang Lhamu Chuli climbing. However, the weather conditions in high mountains are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the basecamp the temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.
Our Pasang Lhamu Chuli expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times. They are supported by other crewmembers and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make sure that our leaders have proven track records in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising safety. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crewmembers are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign: All Trekkers Team accredited Climbing Leader, High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa, cook, cooks basecamp assistant, porters, yaks and yak man and all other necessary trek crew. Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
Trip Start Dates:
We will organize this trip on the dates requested by you. Please contact us for your customized departure date. The spring season of March to May and the autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Nagpai Gosum expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavorable time climbing.
Why Expedition with All Trekkers Team?
Going on any adventure trip will require a substantial sum of money be paid in advance. Yet trusting a company you have no prior experience with involves a risk. We, however, are a fully bonded trek operator authorized by Nepal Government, Tourism and Civil Aviation Department, Nepal Tourism Board, Industry Department, Company Registration Office, Nepal National Bank and the Taxation Office. We are also affiliated with such prestigious regulating bodies as NATTA, NMA, TAAN, and KEEP.
A detailed list of our registrations and licenses for operation:
Nepal Ministry of Industry, Office of Company Register
Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Department of Tourism
Nepal Department of Small Cottage and Industries
Nepal Ministry of Finance, Department of VAT/ PAN
Tax Clearance Certificate
Central Bank of Nepal (Nepal Rastra Bank), Department of Foreign Currency Exchange:
Fair Price with Quality:
Service, quality and fair prices – is the motto of our business. The packages we have offer unbeatable value for money. But you don’t have to take our word on it – we ask our clients shop around to other adventure companies to try to find a similar package at a better price. However, we do not compromise on quality to cut down the costs. Our edge over other international operators is that we are a Nepal based business that allows us to keep our overhead to a minimum. So we can offer the same facilities as those provided by a Western company at literally a fraction of the price. That about 40% of our bookings come from repeat business proves our performance when it comes to client satisfaction.
Sustainable Operation Policies:
All Trekkers Team (P) LTD observes responsible and sustainable tourism practices. The company works closely with all stakeholders including the local communities to protect and conserve natural environment. We ensure that all our adventure programs leave the least possible carbon footprint. We are also aware of the corporate social responsibility; hence we maintain highest ethical and professional standards as well as transparency in our business practices.
Local and Experienced Mountain Leaders:
All Trekkers Team (P) LTD employs and trains local staff so that the local communities benefit from our adventure operations. However, we never compromise on our high safety and quality standards. All of our leaders and guides are carefully selected based on their aptitude, experience, and leadership skills. Most of our guides have been continuously working with us for more than 10 years. Our guides are trained for remote emergencies and are well versed in local politics, culture and customs. Please check out the personal records of our guides who have scaled Mt. Everest several times (and hundreds of other lesser peaks). Thus, we guarantee that all our guides, cooks, and other crews members are qualified and experienced professionals who make it sure that you’re always safe, sound, and happy.
Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it, please contact us by email. If you want to talk to us directly, feel free to call us at: +977-98510-78240, 98122-85346
All climbing permit, land, air transportation and accommodation in lodges/tent during the trek/climb, Food: three times meals in a day, necessary guides and required number of porter(s), other essential equipment.
Personal expenses, insurance, tips, emergency evacuation by helicopter, alternative transportation in case of heavy rain, landslide, strike and road blockade etc